In The Eyes of a Farang

by Terry Kovarik

Or it is falang as the Asians pronounce it, well anyway, that's me. Andrew and I toured southeast Asia for 3 1/2 weeks with Andrew's mom and dad. We traveled around Thailand, Laos and Cambodia visiting many new places and catching up with Andrew's family along the way. One of our key objectives was to celebrate the Buddhist holiday, Boun Awk Phansa, or the end of lent, with Andrew's family in Luang Prabang. And that we did and so much more. As the only non Thai/Lao speaking member of our entourage, I can tell you that traveling with folks who speak the native languages is indeed a two edged sword. While it is most helpful to be able to communicate with the natives I came to realize how exhausting it can be for someone to have to translate everything for the farang and I was often left feeling as though I were in a very long foreign film with no subtitles. Andrew did his best to convince me that all the family laughter I endured and didn't understand was not at my expense. I persevered by focusing those English free moments on the joy I felt at being somewhere so very new, or I took a nap.

Our journey started with a 13 hour flight across the pacific, San Francisco to Hong Kong. What an exciting experience. We flew on Cathay Pacific Airlines "Premium Economy" which is so worth the few hundred dollars extra for bigger seats and more leg room. In spite of the very good food and beverage service and reasonably comfortable seats, 13 hours on a plane is a very long time. You eat two full meals, snack here and there, watch 4 movies and there's still 5 hours to go. Not being very good at sleeping on a plane I amused myself by watching others like the middle-aged guy in 8B who got up every 23 minutes with an urgent look on his face... made a bee line to the toilet and returned each time looking like a two year old who had just made a proper potty without mommy's help.

Recommend: Cathay Pacific Premium Economy. Warning: Chivas Regal is their top shelf scotch.

Northern Thailand

So it was October 11, 2018 - San Diego → San Francisco → Hong Kong → Bangkok → Chiang Mai, Thailand - 26.5 hours plus time change and we made it to our first hotel Oct 13, the lovely Le Meridien Chiang Mai. We checked in late in the afternoon and had just the one night to rest and prepare for a 3 day tour North to Chiang Rai and the Golden Triangle.

First stop Chiang Rai Hot Springs - just what every traveler wants to do, soak their feet in 104° water when the air is 95° and humid. Then on to the White Temple, Wat Rong Khun- a busy tourist stop where people line up to get their photo taken in front of the golden toilet. The White Temple is an art exhibit more than a functioning temple. The grandiose temple decoration, Hindu/Buddhist Thai style, is the work of Thai artist Chalermchai Kositpipat. It boasts some wonderful art beautifully crafted and intensely white... with more bling than Liberace. The main temple depicts heaven and hell in fabulous relief. A must see - be sure to wear your sunglasses. Our day tour moved on to what most tourists call the big giant Buddha (Wat Huai Pla Kang)but which is in fact a humongous statue of Guan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy. I wonder if we could move her to Washington? The site is quite large and they have a fast tram to the statue entrance and an elevator to the top. Silver and crystal bling highlight the very white surface inside and the view from the top is expansive. Next to the giant statue is a 9 tiered Buddhist temple with another giant statue of Guan Yin in side. This one is carved from wood and the temple interior is warm and inviting.

Note: While touring in Southeast Asia, farang are expected to take a picture of a Buddha image at least every 13 hours or risk the Curse of Mittavinda.

Dark Humor and Royal Residence

From the White Temple all sugar and spice to the dark, morose Black Temple in Chiang Rai. Our tour guide warned us ahead of time that many are repulsed by the imagery in the Baandam Museum- we mostly thought it was amusing to see where one man's bizarre passion led him. Odd is a mild adjective... creating most of your art pieces from animal parts is different and Thawan Duchanee the primary Thai artist did not disappoint. Resembling classic Thai temple architecture in dark theme this contemporary museum is an eclectic collection of dead animal parts fashioned into furniture and wall hangings, none of which are particularly comfortable unless you like having a rams horn poking you in the ribs. My favorites were having table runners made from full gator and crocodile skins and the signs pointing to the toilet. I bet today's gender-benders and 'non-binaries' can't figure out where to pee. Next on to the beautiful mountain top gardens and Royal Villa of Doi Tung. said to be the work of the Thai Queen and her mother. The story of the garden is rich with philanthropy and royal concern for the indigenous people who occupied the land before the gardens were created. Apparently a Thai Queen gave the people tools and opportunities to get off the opium trade. which was their only source of income, in exchange for the land. The people were relocated just down the road farming coffee and have been prospering ever since. The Royal Villa is a beautiful home for the Royal family high in the mountains. It is made of soft warm woods and an architectural combination of Swiss chalet and Thai Lanna style. It is open to tourists when the Royal family is elsewhere.

Recommend: Chiang Rai hotel Nak Nakara. A lovely and inexpensive boutique hotel with comfortable rooms and very good service. This was booked for us by our tour company - a very good choice. Ask for room 213 and you can sleep where Andrew and I did.

At the Very Top of Thailand

As our time in Chiang Rai was waning we found ourselves at the very top of Thailand at the Mae Sai boarder crossing to Myanmar. A busy portal to Burma, this town in Thailand is reminiscent of every theme park attraction you have ever been to - you can't leave without a trip through the gift shop. It was so hot the day we were there that shopping was unusually unattractive. Looking at the pictures you might think it would be easy to hop the fence and swim across the narrow river. And you certainly could but you would end up in prison, the morgue or the hospital. Our tour guide told us to watch our belongings closely as the boarder neighborhood was pick-pocket rich.

One of the other places on our collective bucket list was the Golden Triangle - that small section of geography where Thailand, Laos and Myanmar can be seen together and Mother China sits misty in the distance. Buddha sits above all things on the Thai side of the river and locals and visitors have options to ride the river from there - crossing to Laos or Myanmar of course is rigidly restricted. We found a food kiosk that sells coconuts but not your typical coconuts. Here they have a technique to fully remove the entire shell and hand you a firm white ball of coconut meat filled with pure coconut water. What a treat to watch a master coconut carver transform a big green coconut into a generous fist sized delicacy.

Apparently Laos, especially in the north, hosts numerous gambling casinos where the rich Chinese are developing dens of iniquity. The US Government has reportedly slapped a number of sanctions on Laos to try to break up what they describe as gang operated centers for drugs, human trafficking and prostitution. It has always been easy for the rich to coerce the poor... even under Buddha's watchful eye.

Back to Chiang Mai for one more full day before we head to Luang Prabang, Laos.

Last Days in Chiang Mai

While it has all the trappings of a big city, Chiang Mai feels more like the suburbs. Northern Thailand has a long history of conquering principalities. Eventually it was unified into the Lanna Kingdom by King Mengrai who founded Chiang Mai in 1296 and made it his capital city. Remnants of the old walled city and its protective moat remain today. This tour included the fascinating umbrella center where skilled artisans make all sizes of umbrellas and Andrew modeled the latest in Thai fashion. This was another goal for our trip. Andrew wanted some classic Thai umbrellas to add to his collection. On to the beautiful Royal Park Rajapruek which is an international cultural exhibit representing 24 countries. Naturally Laos was of particular interest to us. More examples of public space transformed into art forms for the people of Thailand and their guests. On to a Chiang Mai treasure, the Wat Phra That Doi Suthep Originally founded in 1383 where the grand stupa was enshrined with Buddha relics, you must read the story of the White Elephant to better understand the temple. Another amazing example of the devotion, artistic talent and creativity of the Thai people. Thank god they have a tram that takes you up there. For some reason the Thai never build anything at ground level. If I had a nickel for every step I climbed on this trip it wouldn't have cost us a dime. This temple alone had 309 steps to the temple entrance and that's after you first drive to the top of the mountain. Once on the temple grounds you can a number of Buddhist rituals performed, art and craftsmanship in stunning detail and take in a majestic view of Chiang Mai from this Sugar Elephant Mountain view point. Be sure to bring socks as with all Buddhist temples, shoes are not allowed and this temple's grounds are quite large.

So ends our Northern Thailand adventure and it's off to Luang Prabang, Laos. Gotta love Bangkok Air - even though it's only a 1 hour flight, within moments of getting off the ground the lovely cabin crew are serving beverages and snacks... which helps take your mind off the rattle and hum of the propellers.

Memories - Ban Phanom, Luangprabang, Laos - October 2018

Phou Manisouk

Remembering Days gone By: We stopped at the world famous Phanom Handicraft Center to look at hand made silk, scarves, table cloths and the like. It was a large store for a Lao business with tables and tables piled high with all manner of textiles. Many of the artisans were there to show off and sell their wares. We found a lovely moss green scarf perfect for accenting our piano and we got to meet the woman who made it. Andrew's mom Phou found some beautiful silk sins (traditional Lao skirts) but didn't have enough cash to pay for them. Not to be outdone, Phou remembered her younger days working in a textile factory weaving fabric on the loom. She made a deal with the seller and found out in short order that working a loom is like riding a bicycle... once you learn you never forget.

A Lovely Respite - Luang Prabang

UNESCO World Heritage Site, Luang Prabang, Laos is hometown to Andrew and his family. It was our third time there together. I had a fair amount of me time for the first few days while Andrew and his family caught up with all the latest gossip. I got reacquainted with Luang Prabang where you can walk the streets with little worry and where the farang are welcomed with many western conveniences. As a World Heritage Site strict attention is paid to ensure that modern changes don't impact the classic Lao style or the historical significance of this lovely town. With Boun Awk Phansa right around the corner we saw many of the shops on Main street and all the temples getting ready for the big parade making festive colorful lanterns and dragon boats in all shapes and sizes. Favorite moments in LP were when we walked along the rivers, the Mekong or the Nam, where you don't walk long before you encounter a cozy restaurant for cold beverages, Beer Lao of course, and fresh cooked river fish. We found the riverside restaurant where President Obama stopped a few years back and mugged for a few pictures. Like the small sleepy town it is, they pretty much roll up the sidewalks after 10pm when the night market closes, everyone ready for an early start in the morning. We wanted to share our favorite places for future farang visitors. Trust me when I say it is hard to find well made martinis anywhere we traveled but we did find a pretty good one at the Coconut Garden Restaurant where Andrew's nephew Kheck works. And everywhere we found good food, Lao style. There are lots of opportunities for American style food but don't expect too much, except at the Thai managed, Swiss inspired Zürich Bread Factory. A marvelous smoked chicken sandwich I found and during our nearly 2 weeks in LP I ate several of them.

Recommend: Travel in Southeast Asia with a soft smile on your face and calm demeanor. Most Asian Buddhists can't understand western stress and it would be a rare moment indeed to see it on their faces. Need proof? Watch the way they drive. Absolute calm chaos.

Boun Awk Phansa - Luang Prabang

We have celebrated the Buddhist holiday Awk Phansa several times in San Diego but this is our first time celebrating in Luang Prabang. As the holiday approaches you can see people everywhere getting ready. All along Main street, around the city at businesses and temples people are creating their paper lanterns and little boats (khatongs) while contestants for the water dragon boat parade are secretly completing their amazing entries. The video only shows a few of the beautiful water dragon boats but there were 51 entries this year... the last of which made it to the water about midnight. We had befriended the manager of my favorite restaurant in town, the Zürich Bread Factory, thanks to Andrew's Thai tongue. As we were walking up and down Main Street looking for a special vantage point to watch the parade we were given special accommodations right in from of the Zürich where Andrew and I enjoyed a lovely bottle of French wine where we were joined by Robert and Phou. From there it was down to the river which was amass with locals and tourists all in the festive mood with music and fireworks. Amazing to watch the process of carrying the dragon boats down the long stairway to the water which was dotted with thousands of individual khatongs each carrying someones wishes. It was a magical evening.

Day Trip to Kuang Si Waterfall and Phanom Handicraft Center

So we hired a day car and driver and set off for the Kuang Si waterfall park. It's about 30 miles from Luang Prabang. You might think, hum... 30 miles will take about 45 minutes to an hour. Nice try, two and a half hours through the countryside and as you will see in the video, one small town after another on winding roads that make driving in the Ozark back country seem tame. Kuang Si is nestled in the mountains in a beautiful park where locals and tourists love to play in the water. Andrew made good use of it completely ignoring the Danger signs prohibiting diving... like everyone else. If you see the small spinning things in the video just after we leave the water where Andrew is looking for the car - those are fly chasers... they spin a small piece of cloth around and around to keep the flies off whatever they are cooking. Innovative and effective. After the waterfall we headed back to Luang Prabang and stopped at the Phanom Handicraft Center where artisans make all kinds of things out of hand woven fabric. I bought a beautiful green scarf which fits perfectly as a cover for my piano and met the woman who made it. Knowing who actually made something that you own makes it a much more special gift. Andrew's mom Phou was a fabric weaver in her younger days and got a chance to once again sit at the loom and reminisce. We were hoping she could whip up a new table cloth but apparently it takes more than a few minutes.

Xiangkhouang and the Plain of Jars

It was a lovely 8 hour car ride from Luang Phrabang to the Xiangkhouang plateau and the Plain of Jars. Miles and miles of twisting roads, kidney punching potholes and the occasional traffic jam while waiting for small herds of livestock to cross the road. Along the way we had lunch, Andrew stopped to help a local farmer harvest his rice crop, which turned out to be a ruse for another photo op. The Plain of Jars may be the most significant archaeological site in Southeast Asia dating back to the iron age, 500 BC to 500 AD. While it isn't known for sure, the the hand hewn stone jars are believed to have been used for burial rites. The ancient jars are found in several sites over many miles, some of which have just been found in the jungle... unseen for who knows how any years. Our visit was on the heels of a thunderstorm which added to the excitement. All over the area, including right in front of our hotel room, you find bomb craters dating back to the Vietnam War. Many of them are decorated with signs identifying the type of bomb and its explosive weight. One of the places we stopped on this 3 day tour was at the Tham Piu Cave which today is a shrine and war memorial to the hundreds killed by American bombers on 24 November 1968. Laos hosts several such sites and they never want the world to forget the atrocities of the Vietnam War. A side trip to the hot springs near by and a terrific lunch and ostrich adventure. The main attraction at the hot springs was closed for repair but that didn't stop some of us. The rural countryside in Laos is rich with deep green mountains and valleys where farming is quite common. Rice and pineapples planted right up the mountainside and more rice and other crops in the valley.

Overnight Trip to Lao Boat Racing in Sayaboury

This trip was about 3 hours from Luang Prabang on the same winding roads filled with super pot holes (khum yai). Andrew's mom's cousin, Auntie Good and her family hosted a dinner at their home for us and put us up at their Guest House hotel. The boat racing festival is something we have looked forward to for a long time. We do a similar event each year in San Diego but it doesn't compare to the real thing. There is a 2+ day festival on the banks of the river in Sayaboury where there is music, food, Beer Lao, an amusement park with rides for the kids, all kinds of shopping opportunities and of course, boat racing. Day 1 the dragon boats rehearse and show off - later that evening they party till all hours including launching fire lanterns and fireworks. In the video you will see Andrew showing some young locals how to properly launch the fire lantern which he gave them in exchange for a lighter to light our own. The three local boys eating chicken wings sat with us and practiced their 3 Stooges routines. The racing was very exciting... there were many teams representing villages from across the province. We never did find out which team won but it didn't matter... the entire event seemed well coordinated and there was virtually no police presence, no anger displays or violence, just friends and neighbors celebrating, fresh food right off the grill and of course, Beer Lao.