Well you know of course, that Google Maps knows everything so we used him to make the best time. But honestly, there are no convenient freeways to get you to the door and whatever route you take, you must go over the mountains and across the Mohave desert. It was like driving from San Diego to Las Vegas only more brown, sand and yucca. We made it in 6 hours having stopped in Banning for lunch. I seem to remember long distance traveling offered a lot more rest stops along the way so mind your fluids. You don't want to be holding a full bladder when you see the sign "Next Services 51 Miles." So for at least 3.5 of the 6 hours we were on the road the scenery never changed but Andrew and I love a hearty conversation which made the time go by faster. On the way home we took a similar route with Google variations which took us through cattle and chicken ranches and the stimulating smell of fresh manure. We had our first break while a very long train crept along at 3 MPH. Now that would be a great place for a rest area... and a martini bar. Our return trip brought us close to Palm Springs on the US10 freeway and since there was a serious lack of rest stops along the way, and because we still had a few bucks in our pockets, we were forced to stop at the Morongo Resort/Casino for a last pull on the slots. Believe it or not we walked away from there with a notable profit... which seriously reduced our Laughlin losses. The Morongo Casino was clean and not as smoky as most others and with a younger and more notably Asian crowd. Over all it was a pretty easy drive and Google kept us out of major traffic conditions... however scenic the route.
Amusing Anecdote: Thanks to the COVID-19 pandemic and selfish billionaire inflation, the first thing we noticed as we rolled through each town was the current gas price. California to Nevada... boom gas prices down at least a dollar. On to Arizona and boom...gas prices down at least another dollar. Once we were able to determine local gas prices, only then could we appreciate what else was around to enjoy... or make fun of.
Any such comparison would be quite subjective and what's more fun than that. What I find amusing is the way our local San Diego County casinos advertise... with images of beautiful young people, dressed smartly, enjoying spacious hotel rooms and gaming floors or lounging effortlessly in the pool. But what you really get is mostly everyday Joes in blue jeans and t-shirts looking forlorn as they slowly pound away their hard earned money on slot machines and 21 tables. In Laughlin the young crowds have been all but replaced by seniors, many in wheel chairs and walkers, some with oxygen tanks... moving ever so slowly across the casino floor with their lanyards full of rewards cards. And just like some of our San Diego casinos, Laughlin allows smoking in most places... enough to make your eyes water and long for fresh air. Casinos certainly seem to attract the chronic lung crowd. I think our favorite casino was the Aquarius where the food was good and you could enjoy yourself for an entire hour before you needed an oxygen break. And of course, that is where Andrew found his favorite slot machine.
You will see gamblers like Andrew who really have fun playing... win or lose, but they are in the minority. There are nine major casinos in Laughlin most within walking distance along a nice riverside esplanade where we encountered skunks, raccoons and lots of ducks.
Laughlin is like a mini Reno or a micro Vegas. The days we spent there were during their off season (after summer vacationers and before the snow birds) so it was not at all crowded. There are shows in many of the large venues attracting some big name talent... the same folks you see on casino circuits everywhere, but mostly on the weekends. Most of the hotel/resorts have other amenities like swimming pools, restaurants, bars and even bowling alleys. Since most of Laughlin exists along the Colorado river there are several opportunities to play in the cold river... boat rentals, jet skies and boat tours. Most notable is a high speed boat that does a 6 hour round trip to Lake Havasu and the London Bridge. We missed that one as it sells out quickly a few days in advance, but we did take an informative 90 minute cruise to learn the history of Laughlin and the surrounding Bullhead City... all while enjoying a bucket of bloody marys. There are also parks and hiking opportunities close by but there are no trees or shade in the Mohave Desert and hiking when it's 94 degrees is not my idea of fun. Another option we found was saving bug bucks on gas by just crossing the bridge to the Arizona side.
Now don't get me wrong... tourist traps are just what they are and many can be very enjoyable as long as you understand that their soul purpose is to relieve you of your tourist dollars. Oatman is a very old town set along the old historic Route 66 and it is billed as an old mining town, a ghost town and home to the quintessential rednecks of the Arizona Southwest. Feral burros (Spanish for donkeys) are one of the big draws to Oatman. You see them around town where the tourists frequent hoping for a handout. Shops in Oatman sell bags of alfalfa chips which you buy for a buck to feed the burros. We saw a number of people feeding the dozen or so burros in town the day we were there. So we bought some alfalfa chips but alas... the burros were too full to eat them and graciously took them from our hands and dropped them on the ground... right next to their abundant warm, fiber rich poop. Oatman is only an hour from Laughlin and its an easy drive. Bit of history... the Oatman Hotel served as a one night stand for Clark Gable and Carol Lombard after their wedding in 1939. Their honeymoon room is on the second floor of the hotel and when they say it's condition is unchanged since 1939... they mean it. There is an inch of dust on everything, a record player with a short stack of records, a double bed with faded bedspread and a persianesque rug on the floor... in tatters.
Ah... the beauty of Oatman.
The other big draw is the Oatman Hotel Bar and Restaurant. It's interior is quite ingenious. You would never have to change the decoration as the walls, ceilings and just about every surface is covered with one dollar bills... donated by patrons and most autographed with a host of personal graffiti. The bison burger and cold IPA we had was quite good and reasonably priced.
It all started back in the 1960s when London, England bridge pundits determined that the old London Bridge, built in the 1830s, was deteriorating... falling down. Who knew that the old child's song 'London Bridge is falling down, falling down...' had a basis in fact. Well Londoners thought it too expensive to fix so they had decided to just remove it. Along came American big shot Robert McCulloch, a millionaire with a dream who had bought a thousand acres around Lake Havasu, Arizona and needed a gimmick to attract people. Well the rest is history and there are 842,911 web sites with all the details. We drove there by car. It was just under a two hour drive through the desert from Laughlin and again Google maps got us there with no delays. The bridge is pretty unremarkable except for its journey to America and the burgeoning town that grew up around it. We found a nice spot with a terrific view of the bridge... The Barley Brothers Brewery where we relaxed for an hour enjoying their happy hour... local brew and delicious bacon wrapped scallops. And wouldn't you know it... right in front of us was a big screen TV with game 3 of the NLCS where the Padres ruled the 5th inning and died at the end. Sounds like the plot line to a thousand old movies.
The bridge connects the island to the mainland which had to be man made in order to give the bridge some value. Originally a peninsula, McCulloch dug a channel to separate that piece of land to create the island and at just the right size to accommodate the bridge's 900 foot span. Money will out.
All in all the Lake Havasu and London Bridge area is worth the drive... especially when you are as close as Laughlin. And if you like lake side activities, boating, camping etc... it's worth a look see. The area is family friendly and caters to boaters, campers and folks with bridge fetishes.
Terry Ernest - October 29, 2022